Part One


Our first real stop during our trip to Argentina was Mendoza.

In what would become a running trend, our visit to this renowned region didn’t start smoothly, but we were able to turn the rocky start to our advantage. We had lined up an Airbnb outside the city, surrounded by vineyards, but we got a message that our Airbnb owners were dealing with a personal emergency and we wouldn’t be able to check in until late that night. They did their best to be accommodating, letting us store our bags at a hostel they operated in the city, and we took the opportunity to explore downtown Mendoza.
We wandered around the city, exchanged some cash for local pesos and then headed back to the hostel to regroup. I have always enjoyed staying in hostels while traveling, because there are usually many interesting people to talk to. Evan has never really traveled this way, so it was a different experience for him. We met a girl from California and she shared a bottle of wine with us on the patio as well as some stories of her own travels and then convinced us to join her for a traditional Argentinian BBQ (called an asado) and a walk around the lively city. It was her last night in Argentina.

After dinner, we were able to get checked into our Airbnb. We woke up well rested, to a beautiful day in our lovely abode. I loved the curious curly leaves on the trees in this region and adored the vines on the window of the house we stayed in.

By way of an apology for the late check-in, our Airbnb owners lent us some bicycles (and a bottle of champagne) and we rode about an hour down rocky, tree covered lanes to a vineyard for a picnic lunch and wine tasting.

Here’s a map of the Mendoza region and the different soils used to make wine in each area.
The lunch was delicious and a nap in the shade was just what we needed. The grounds of the vineyard, Alta Vista, were beautiful. The olive trees, we were told, are more than 100 years old. It was also the first time we tasted Torrontés, a refreshing white wine popular in the region.


Our ride/walk back to our hotel was long, hot and tiring, but beautiful just the same.

Before coming to Argentina, we were advised by multiple friends to watch the show Chef’s Table on Netflix, which features an episode focusing on the world class chef Francis Mallmann. We were able to get a reservation last minute at one of his restaurants in Mendoza. It was a wonderful, unique experience. The kitchen was almost entirely outdoors with dishes being cooked and charred on the open fire or in a clay oven. As we sat in the absolutely stunning environment, we took almost as much pleasure watching the chefs work as we did enjoying our bountiful meals. It was one of the most memorable restaurant experiences we have ever had and recommend it to any who get the chance to travel to the area.



The next day we took a cab into Chacras de Coria, a small town near the capital, to visit an open air market, find some lunch and enjoy a leisurely walk back to our Airbnb. There I bought a beautiful little soft leather purse and my first mate bombilla and cup.
We enjoyed a bottle of Torrontés at a lovely little spot before heading back.


On our way home, we made a friend. There are a lot of dogs in Argentina and a lot of strays. One of them followed us for over an hour back to our Airbnb. She had a collar, so we figured she wasn’t a stray, but we couldn’t get her to stop following us. A black dog even joined in and followed us part of the way. We later found out that the collar she wore was one that is put on dogs that have been given flea medicine. We affectionately named her Cody, for Codependent. She was very sweet and I wanted to keep her, but we had to leave her outside the fence once we got home.
After relaxing for a bit, we ventured out to find dinner. It was a beautiful evening.


We had adjusted to the later lifestyle of Argentina, where you don’t eat until nine or ten at night, but apparently in the country Sundays are different. Every restaurant we tried was closed and the shops were all closed as well, so cooking was out of the question. To curb our hunger, we did find an ice cream shop that was open. I had a dulce de leche ice cream, the national flavor of Argentina. It was delicious.
Desiring an actual dinner, however, we began walking in the other direction. We came across a gated, fancy hotel and approached the watch tower to ask the guard if he knew of a place that would be open. There was much confusion compounded by the language barrier and our poor Spanish skills, but he ended up letting us into the hotel to dine at their restaurant. We had a tasty meal and spent the evening talking to the excellent bar tender and a New York City couple who were staying at the hotel.
Stay tuned for photos from the second half of our stay in Mendoza. It was such a memorable and photo-rich experience, I decided the post was getting too long and it should be broken up into two. I highly recommend traveling to this area of Argentina. The people, food, wine, and dogs were a delight.
















































































































































































































































































































